TITLES EXPAND THIS, CLICK THE LINK, CLICK THE TITLE Porter A porter is a load carrier BELOW base camp levels, for both trekking groups, expeditions trekking in to BC (normal load 30-45kgs) and to supply lodges or towns (variable loads but carrying for themselves, sometimes over 150lbs/80kgs - seriously). They come from a variety of ethnic groups, although in the Everest region many are Rai, from a couple of districts below the Everest region. Basically they are never from the Sherpa ethnic group. In Nepal, locals mostly refer to them as "coolies" in the vernacular. Porters enjoying the warmth with dinner plates in hand - credit Jamie McGuinness/Project Himalaya Sirdar For expeditions, coordinating tons of supplies broken into hundreds of loads is a big job, and a sirdar manages all of that, and the labour relations of all the staff and more. For treks, the sirdar, will likely be manager and guide and coordinator - respect! Occasionally, for big treks, there will be a separate sirdar and guide. Porter leader On camping treks with lots of porters a porter leader sorts the loads each day and generally helps out. Porter cook Although few companies ever provide, on a long camping trip it often works better to have a cook to prepare meals for the porters too. (Trek) sherpa On a trek, the job of a sherpa is to serve meals, set and pack camp, ensure the members don't get lost along the way and generally help the sirdar/guide run a good trek. Note "sherpa" is a job description that I have yet to find a better word for something so all encompassing. (For Sherpa with a capital "S" see above.) 2008: Pasang Gomba Sherpa about to lead a sick climber down Pasang Gomba Sherpa, a climbing sherpa, about to lead a sick climber down from South Col - credit Jamie McGuinness/Project Himalaya Climbing sherpa These guys are superheros. Watch any documentary about Everest and there is endless talk about "the sherpas", which are more accurately called climbing sherpas or perhaps high altitude mountain workers, but that doesn't have much of a ring to it. Again, a climbing sherpa is a broad job, serving meals, carrying loads above BC (but definitely not below BC), fixing camps, and then providing backup by literally following just behind a member on summit day with extra oxygen. Some also assist with the rope fixing, and in general climbing sherpas are indispensable on Everest. I, Jamie McGuinness, am the only foreigner who has worked as a true climbing sherpa ever (on Everest, Tibet, in 2003). Personal sherpa On Everest (and other 8000m mountains) a personal sherpa is a guide and climbing partner who climbs beside the member on all climbs to the camps and to the summit, and is a source of advice and a helping hand. Normally they will have some local mountaineering qualifications. Climbing guide They climb with the members on "trekking" peaks, such as Island Peak and Mera Peak, and if Nepali will have a Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) course certificate. There are basic and advanced levels and I feel only guides with the advanced level are suitable for trekking peaks, although many guides have only the basic level or no certificate at all. Aspirant mountain guide Nepal now trains guides to the UIAGM/FMGA standards, with a Nepal-specialised course that switches out ski guiding for 8000m peaks - sensible! An aspirant guide is one who has passed most or all the modules and is in a two year "aspirant" training phase where they keep a log book and must climb a variety of mountains, some high, some technical, to get all round guiding experience. Mountain guide Although many people guide in the mountains, the term "mountain guide" is best reserved for fully qualified UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guides, or similar. They are internationally recognized and have a badge and/or pin showing their qualification, and are the true mountain experts as it takes years and more than a hundred climbs and many study modules and tests to pass. Some mountain guides are only summer-qualified, so are part way through and still have the ski modules to go. In general when a company offers a guide ratio, ie 1:3 meaning one guide to three members, they mean that the guide is a fully qualified mountain guide. In Nepal there around a 100 qualified mountain guides, qualified through special nepal-based qualification courses and instead of being a ski guide (basically there is no skiing in Nepal), they have an 8000m peak module. Member / client A trekker or climber who has paid their way on a trek or expedition. Until recently they were most "westerners" or foreigners but now Nepalis and Indians are joining treks and expeditions too as "members" or clients. (Trekking) guide In a trekking scenario a guide will be someone who walks with the members explaining what they see and perhaps eats with them, or at minimum gives a briefing over meals. In Nepal, they should have a certificate from a basic ~24 day course. Porter-guide A trek guide who also carries some member's gear, perhaps 8-12kgs. (Trek) leader On trek, they could also be called the guide, but differently can be a representative of the foreign trekking company that acts as a liaison between the overseas agency and the local trekking company, and generally ensures everything goes smoothly, and whose opinion especially counts when times are challenging. (Professional) leader A "professionally lead" Everest expedition will have a leader that is in overall charge, working closely with the sirdar, climbing sherpas and personal sherpas and other crew. Their role is partly to guide but without a fixed guide ratio. Usually there will one leader for the whole team (check the max team size!) They discuss and manage, and as such will normally eat with the members and climb mostly with them. They may or may not be qualified, but invariably will be experienced on big peaks. (I was a professional leader.) Liaison officer /LO Notable usually for their absence, an "LO" is a government official randomly assigned to an expedition to accompany them to help arrange logistics with the "village headman" (a job the sirdar now does) and check that every member is obeying the law, although now police supersede them. This old-style position is utterly anachronistic and the main barrier to progress in changes of mountaineering rules, but with under-the-table money being made, officials have been unable to stomach change. Certainly there is a need for an official to observe and manage various issues at a big base camp such as Everest, however this is not an old-style "LO". Mountain leader This is a British qualification for leading groups in the mountains, both on approach, and on basic snow and ice. There is discussion in Nepal about introducing a similar system, but so far a discussion only. Cook In charge of the kitchen, whether an on-the-move trekking kitchen or a fixed expedition base camp kitchen. The majority are from a village and learned from other cooks and basic cooking classes. None are what we would call a chef, although I hope this does develop. The cook oversees the other kitchen staff and on trek just carries his personal gear. Kitchen hand A "kitchen boy" in the vernacular, they are the hardest workers on a trek, waking before dawn to start boiling water and prepare breakfast. After breakfast they wash the dishes, carry them and the supplies needed for lunch (25kgs/55lbs+) and march off to catch the trekkers at a suitable spot. Once at camp in the afternoon they prepare afternoon tea then dinner, and can be found washing the dishes as everyone heads to bed. Kudos to them.